Berlin is a tense city, from its fashion to its architecture to its charged political history. The Berlin Wall is a sobering reminder of the postwar, overburdened atmosphere, and yet the graffiti that cover its remains today has become a symbol of social progress. Visit the Weltzeituhrhr (world time) clock, crowned with a model of the solar system, then travel back in time to dinner in the historic Zur Letzten Instanz, a 16th-century restaurant frequented by Napoleon and Beethoven.
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